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    徐霞客傳·(清)錢謙益

    作者:來源:發表于:2017-02-22 11:27:33閱讀:
    徐霞客者,名弘祖,江陰梧塍里人也。高祖經,與唐寅同舉,除名。寅嘗以倪云林畫卷償博進[1]三千,手跡猶在其家。霞客生里社,奇情郁然,玄[2]對山水,力耕奉母。踐更繇役[3],蹙蹙如籠鳥之觸隅,每思飏去。年三十,母遣之出游。每歲三時[4]出游,秋冬覲省,以為常。東南佳山水,如東西洞庭、陽羨、京口、金陵、吳興、武林、浙西徑山、天目、浙東五泄、四明、天臺、雁宕、南海落迦,皆幾案衣帶間物耳。有再三至,有數至,無僅一至者。

      其行也,從一奴或一僧、一仗、一襆被,不治裝,不裹糧;能忍饑數日,能遇食即飽,能徒步走數百里,凌絕壁,冒叢箐,扳援下上,懸度綆汲[5],捷如青猿,健如黃犢;以崟巖這床席,以溪澗為飲沐,以山魅、木客、王孫、貜父[6]為伴侶,儚儚粥粥[7],口不能道;時與之論山經,辨水脈,搜討形勝,則劃然心開。居平未嘗鞶帨為古文辭[8],行游約數百里,就破壁枯樹,燃松拾穗,走筆為記,如甲乙之簿,如丹青之畫,雖才筆之士,無以加也。

      游臺、宕還,過陳木叔小寒山[9],木叔問:“曾造雁山絕頂否?”霞客唯唯。質明已失其所在,十日而返。曰:“吾取間道,捫蘿上龍湫,三十里,有宕焉,雁所家也。扳絕磴上十數里,正德間白云、云外兩僧團飄尚在[10]。復上二十馀里,其顛罡風逼人,有麋鹿數百群,圍繞而宿。三宿而始下。”其與人爭奇逐勝,欲賭身命,皆此類也。已而游黃山、白岳、九華、匡廬[11];入閩。登武夷,泛九鯉湖[12];入楚,謁玄岳[13];北游齊、魯、燕、冀、嵩、雒;上華山,下青柯枰[14],心動趣歸,則其母正屬疾,嚙指相望也[15]。

      母喪服闋,益放志遠游。訪黃石齋[16]于閩,窮閩山之勝,皆非閩人所知。登羅浮,謁曹溪,歸而追及石齋于云陽。往復萬里,如步武耳。繇終南背走峨眉,從野人采藥,棲宿巖穴中,八日不火食,抵峨眉,屬奢酋阻兵[17],乃返。只身戴釜,訪恒山于塞外,盡歷九邊厄塞[18]。歸,過余山中,劇談四游四極,九州九府[19],經緯分合,歷歷如指掌。謂昔人志星官輿地[20],多承襲傅會;江河二經[21],山川兩戒[22],自紀載來,多囿于中國一隅。欲為昆侖海外之游,窮流沙而后返。小舟如葉,大雨淋濕,要之登陸,不肯,曰:“譬如磵泉暴注,撞擊肩背,良足快耳!”

      丙子[23]九月,辭家西邁。僧靜聞愿登雞足禮迦葉[24],請從焉。遇盜于湘江,靜聞被創病死,函其骨,負之以行。泛洞庭,上衡岳,窮七十二峰。再登峨眉,北抵岷山,極于松潘。又南過大渡河,至黎、雅[25],登瓦屋、曬經諸山[26]。復尋金沙江,極于犛牛徼外[27]。由金沙南泛瀾滄,由瀾滄北尋盤江[28],大約在西南諸夷境,而貴竹[29]、滇南之觀亦幾盡矣。過麗江,憩點蒼[30]、雞足。瘞靜聞骨于迦葉道場,從宿愿也。

      由雞足而西,出玉門關數千里,至昆侖山,窮星宿海[31],去中夏三萬四千三百里。登半山,風吹衣欲墮,望見方外黃金寶塔。又數千里,至西番,參大寶法王[32]。鳴沙以外,咸稱胡國,如迷盧、阿耨諸名[33],由旬[34]不能悉。《西域志》稱沙河阻遠,望人馬積骨為標識,鬼魅熱風,無得免者,玄奘法師受諸磨折,具載本傳。霞客信宿往返,如適莽蒼[35]。還至峨眉山下,托估客附所得奇樹虬根以歸。并以《溯江紀源》一篇寓余,言《禹貢》岷山導江,乃泛濫中國之始,非發源也。中國入河之水為省五,入江之水為省十一,計其吐納,江倍于河,按其發源,河自昆侖之北,江亦自昆侖之南,非江源短而河源長也。又辨三龍大勢[36],北龍夾河之北,南龍抱江之南,中龍中界之,特短;北龍只南向半支入中國,惟南龍磅薄半宇內,其脈亦發于昆侖,與金沙江相并南出,環滇池以達五嶺。龍長則源脈亦長,江之所以大于河也。其書數萬言,皆訂補桑《經》酈《注》[37]及漢、宋諸儒疏解《禹貢》所未及,余撮其大略如此。

      霞客還滇南,足不良行,修《雞足山志》,三月而畢。麗江木太守偫糇糧[38],具筍輿以歸。病甚,語問疾者曰:“張騫鑿空[39],未睹昆侖;唐玄奘、元耶律楚材[40]銜人主之命,乃得西游。吾以老布衣,孤筇雙屨,窮河沙,上昆侖,歷西域,題名絕國,與三人而為四,死不恨矣。”余之識霞客也,因漳人劉履丁[41]。履丁為余言:“霞客西歸,氣息支綴[42],聞石齋下詔獄,遣其長子間關[43]往視,三月而反,具述石齋頌系狀[44],據床浩嘆,不食而卒。”其為人若此。

      梧下先生[45]曰:“昔柳公權記三峰事[46],有王玄沖者,訪南坡僧義海,約登蓮花峰,某日屆山趾,計五千仞為一旬之程,既上,煹煙為信”。海如期宿桃林[47],平曉,岳色清明,佇立數息,有白煙一道起三峰之頂。歸二旬而玄沖至,取玉井蓮[48]落葉數瓣,及池邊鐵船寸許遺海,負笈而去。玄沖初至,海渭之曰:“茲山削成,自非馭風憑云,無有去理。”玄沖曰:“賢人勿謂天不可登,但慮無其志爾。”霞客不欲以張騫諸人自命,以玄沖擬之,并為三清[49]之奇士,殆庶幾乎?霞客紀游之書,高可隱幾。余屬其從兄仲昭讎勘而艷情之,當為古今游記之最。霞客死時年五十有六。西游歸以庚辰六月,卒以辛巳正月,葬江陰之馬灣[50]。亦履丁云。

      注釋:

      [1]博進:賭博所輸的錢。《漢書·陳遵傳》:“官尊祿厚,可以償博進矣。”顏師古注:“進者,會禮之財也,謂博所賭也。”[2]玄:默。[3]踐更:受錢代人服徭役。[4]三時:指春、夏、秋三季。[5]懸度綆汲:以懸索度山谷,攀繩登山,如綆之汲水。[6]木客:傳說中的山中怪獸,形體似人,爪長如鳥,巢于高樹。王孫:猴子的別稱,貜(jué決)父:馬猴。[7]儚(méng萌)儚:昏昧的樣子。粥(yù玉)粥:謙卑的樣子。[8]鞶帨(pán shuì盤稅):大帶與佩巾,比喻華麗的藻飾。揚雄《法言·寡見》:“今之學者,非獨為之華藻也,又從而繡其鞶帨。”故以鞶帨為雕章鑿句。[9]陳木叔:陳函輝,原名煒,字木叔。崇禎進士,授靖江知縣,明亡后從魯王航海,已而相失。入云峰山,作絕命詞十章,投水死。小寒山:陳函輝所居之地,其自號小寒山子。[10]正德:明武宗年號(1506—1521)。團瓢:圓形草屋。[11]白岳:山名,在安徽休寧縣西四十里。九華:安徽九華山。匡廬:即廬山。[12]九鯉湖:在福建仙游縣東北,相傳有何姓兄弟九人煉丹于此,后各騎一鯉仙去,故稱。[13]玄岳:武當山之別名。[14]青柯坪:在華山谷口內約十公里處。[15]嚙指:《搜神記》載:曾子從仲尼在楚萬里而心動,辭歸問母,母曰:“思爾嚙指。”后用以表達母親對兒子的渴念。[16]黃石齋:黃道明,明福建漳浦人。天啟進士,崇禎時官至少詹事,南明弘光朝任禮部尚書,后于福建擁立唐王,拜武英殿大學士,戰敗被捊至南京,不屈死。[17]奢酋:奢崇明。本苗族,世居四川永寧,為宣撫司。明嘉宗時募川兵援遼,崇明等遂反,進圍成都,國號大梁,后由朱燮元平定其亂。[18]九邊:明代北方的九處要鎮,即包括遼東、宣府、大同、延綏、寧夏、甘肅、薊州、山西、固原。[19]四游:《太平御覽》卷三六引緯書《尚書考靈異(曜)》:“地有四游,冬至地上,北而西三萬里;夏至地下,南至東復三萬里;春秋分,則其中矣。”四極:四方極遠之地。《爾雅·釋地》:“東至于泰遠,西至于邠國,南至于濮鉛,北至于祝栗,謂之四極。”按泰遠至祝栗皆為古代傳說中極遠處國名。九州:《爾雅·釋地》列舉冀、豫、雍、荊、揚、兗、徐、幽、營等州為九州。九州州名,《尚書·禹貢》、《周禮·夏官·職方氏》、《呂氏春秋·有覽始》、《漢書·地理志》與《爾雅·釋地》各書說法不一。后用以泛指中國。九府:謂九方的寶藏和特產。《爾雅·釋地》列舉東方、東南、南方、西南、西方、西北、北方、東北及中央出產之美者,是為九府。[20]星官:星宿天象的總稱,指天文。輿地:地理。[21]江河二經:長江、黃河兩條干流。徐霞客《溯江紀源》:“江、河為南北二經流,以其特達于海也。”[22]兩戒:唐代一行和尚提出的我國地理現象特征。北戒相當于今青海、陜北、山西、河北、遼寧一線;南戒相當于四川、陜南、河南、湖北、湖南、江西、福建一線。[23]丙子:崇禎九年(1636)。[24]雞足:山名,在云南賓川西北。迦葉:摩訶迦葉,華言飲光勝尊。本事外道,后歸佛教,釋迦死后,傳正法眼藏,為佛教長老。嘗持僧伽梨衣人雞足山。[25]黎、雅:黎州(今四川漢源)、雅州(今四川雅安)。[26]瓦屋:山名,在四川榮經縣東南。曬經:山名,在四川越西縣東北,山有廣口,相傳唐玄奘曾曬經于此,故名。[27]犛牛徼外:出產犛牛的邊遠地區。[28]盤江:有南盤江、北盤江,均發源于云南沾益。徐霞客著有《盤江考》。[29]貴竹:即貴筑,縣名,其地今入貴陽市。[30]點蒼:山名,一名大理山,在今云南大理白族自治州中部。[31]星宿海:在青海省鄂陵湖以西,為黃河源散流地面而形成的淺湖群,羅列如星,故名。[32]西番:即西藏。大寶法王:元世祖尊西藏喇嘛教薩迦派首領八思巴為大寶法王,明代因之。[33]迷盧、阿耨:皆西域國名。[34]由旬:梵語里程單位,約當軍行一日的行程,或言四十里,或言三十里,或言十六里,因山川不同致行里不等。[35]信宿:再宿。莽蒼:空曠貌,此指郊野。語出《莊子·逍遙游》:“適莽蒼者三飡而返,腹猶果然。”[36]龍:舊時指山形地勢逶迤曲折似龍,故謂山脈曰龍。三龍之說,見徐霞客《溯江紀源》。[37]桑《經》:相傳《水經》為漢代桑欽所撰,故稱。酈《注》:指酈道元所作《水經注》。[38]木太守:明云南麗江府知府。洪武十六年,以木德為知府。木德從征有功,子孫世襲此職。偫(zhì志)儲備。糇(hóu猴)糧:干糧。[39]張騫:漢武帝時人,封博望侯,首先為漢溝通西域諸國。鑿空:開通道路。[40]耶律楚材:字晉卿,遼皇族,初仕金,后為元重臣,曾隨元太祖出征西域。[41]劉履丁:字漁仲,明末以諸生應辟召,擢郁林州知州。[42]支綴:勉強支持連綴其氣息。[43]間關:展轉跋涉。[44]頌(róng容 )系:有罪入獄而不加刑具。頌,同“容”,謂寬容。[45]梧下先生:作者自稱。[46]柳公權:字誠懸,唐著名書法家。三峰:指蓮花峰、落雁峰、朝陽峰。其記王玄沖登蓮花峰事,見《小說舊聞記》,載涵芬樓本《說郛》卷四九。又見于唐皇甫枚《三水小牘》,文字大同小異。[47]桃林:桃林坪,在華山谷口以南五里。[48]玉井蓮:韓愈《古意》:“太華峰頭玉井蓮,開花十丈藕如船。”《華山記》:“山頂有池,生千葉蓮花。”[49]三清:道家以為人天兩界之外,別有三清,即玉清、太清、上清,為神仙居住之地。[50]庚辰:明崇禎十三年(1640)。辛巳:崇禎十四年。陳函輝《徐霞客墓志銘》:“霞客生于萬歷丙戌(十四年,1586),卒于崇禎辛巳,年五十有六,以壬午(崇禎十五年,1642)春三月初九日,卜葬于馬灣之新阡。
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